Our 5 Favorite Oris Watches

I recently entered into one of those calm, well-reasoned and grammatically flawless debates at which the internet excels concerning which timepiece brand offers the best value for money. And while names such as Hamilton, Seiko, Longines and Christopher Ward (all excellent marques) featured heavily and garnered some typically vociferous support, by and large, there was no one who could effectively argue against giving the overall win to the Holstein-based manufacture Oris.

Founded in 1904, Oris has carved out a rock solid position for itself among Switzerland’s litany of luxury watchmakers using the simplest principle of them all; making products of outstanding quality and pricing them fairly so that more people can actually afford them. That way, while they may pocket less profit on each one, they sell more and get their creations on more wrists and so extend their reach. Not for nothing is the company slogan, ‘Real Watches for Real People’.

Oris’s Portfolio

There are eight collections in Oris’s current lineup; Aquis, Divers, Propilot X, Big Crown, Propilot, Rectangular, Artelier and ProDiver.

The majority lean towards the reimagining of vintage pieces from the brand’s past, the exceptions being the modern Aquis and ProDiver series’ and the high tech Propilot range.

What’s more, far from being just another homage brand cashing in, Oris became a full-fledged manufacture again in 2014 after committing to the decade-long ‘Oris Movement Creation Program’ of building their own in-house movements. I say again because, prior to the Quartz Crisis, they were able to boast more than 400 domestic calibers. With the release of the Calibre 473 in 2023, their 10th new engine in 10-years, they have started the long climb back to previous levels.

Oris’s Best

Picking just five pieces from Oris’s contemporary roster is a daunting challenge and, as I learned from my recent online ‘discussion’, tastes do indeed vary.

The five models below then are my own personal favorites, but I urge you to check out the whole collection from the brand’s website.

The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

The Aquis series has been around since 2011 and has ballooned into a collection of some 60 models since then. Within its walls you will find steel and titanium watches ranging in size from 36.5mm up to 45.8mm and in an array of colors aimed at both male and female audiences. There are diamond bezels, dials made from recycled plastic, limited editions created by world renowned artists alongside GMT and depth gauge-equipped examples. In short, there’s something for everyone.

But my preference is presently the simple 41.5mm Aquis Date, powered by the in-house Calibre 400.

Not only is it an extremely handsome watch, ideally sized and with a beautifully executed sunburst-finished dial (green is my preference, but there’s also anthracite or blue) and matching ceramic bezel, but its movement is a peach. The first automatic mechanism of this new Oris era, the Calibre 400 exceeds COSC-regulations with a stated accuracy of +3/-5 seconds a day and a 5-day power reserve. That isn’t the most impressive thing however. The brand is so confident in its workmanship they have slapped on both a 10-year warranty and a 10-year service interval—which not even Rolex can match.

If there was ever the perfect analogy for Oris as a manufacture, the Calibre 400 is it. Superb functionality, class-leading autonomy and bombproof reliability, all wrapped up in the ideal ‘go-anywhere-do-anything’ watch. And it’s all yours for around $3,500.

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

Oris have made the pointer date complication their own, introducing their first all the way back in 1938 and keeping them in constant production ever since.

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 is the latest model in that proud tradition, a retro pilot’s watch, with its oversize winding crown designed to be operated by the gloved hands of vintage-era airmen.

Driven by the Calibre 473, itself the most recent movement to come about from the brand’s 10-yearlong commitment to self-sufficiency, it is a hand wound, five-day power reserve engine, given increased anti-magnetic talents, the same 10-year warranty and servicing schedule as the Caliber 400 above and even a reserve indicator on the movement-side to let you know when you’re about to run out of mainspring.

The watch itself is pure historic charm. A 38mm, multi-piece steel model it, unlike much of the older BCPD collection, features a smooth bezel rather than the traditional fluted type. This was a conscious design decision in order to separate the evolved, in-house powered watches from the previous generation, fitted with Sellita third-party movements.

The light blue dial, large Arabic numerals and splash of red on the date indicator all provide a pleasing and easily readable harmony, and the domed sapphire has been given AR coatings on both sides.

Altogether, it adds up to quality far beyond its price point, retailing at $4,500.

The Oris Artelier Complication

Originally launched back in 1991, the first ‘Complication’ model came along at the perfect time for an industry still feeling at least residual effects from the crippling Quartz Crisis. True to its roots, Oris proved that a highly-functional, luxury mechanical watch could be affordable.

The reference has remained in the catalog ever since, going through a number of updates, most recently in 2017. This time around we have been treated to a slimmer, silkier case with elongated lugs and a sleek bezel.

Up front, the layout gives us standard three hand time telling along with sub dials at the 3, 6 and 9 for day of the week, second time zone display and date respectively, with a moon phase indicator at the 12.

Inside, the Oris 781 runs the show, based on the SW 200-1, an automatic movement with a 38-hour reserve, hacking seconds and fine timing device.

There are four versions in the collection, all in steel and measuring 40mm, with two dial options; one with blue detailing on hands and indexes, the other with those elements in rose gold, each available on steel bracelet or leather strap.

A sophisticated timepiece with genuine usefulness, prices start at under $2,500.

The Oris Social Club Edition

How’s this for a great idea? The Oris Social Clubs are where fans of the marque come together and hang out in person, with many of the 37 chapters from all corners of the globe organizing events that support local and environmental causes.

In response to the loyalty of their followers, the designers at Oris collaborated with social club members to create a new design; a black bezeled, white dialed version of their much-loved Divers Sixty-Five series.

The 40mm no-date piece is high contrasting simplicity itself, but each one comes with a lovely twist on the reverse. All of the chapters have their own engraved case back showcasing one of the architectural marvels of their area. So Barcelona gets a relief etching of the Sagrada Familia, while Paris has the Eiffel Tower (they seemed to struggle with Lisbon, to be honest. No idea what that is).

Best of all, 10% of all proceeds from sales of the OSC watches goes to local communities.

The Oris Propilot X Calibre 115

If much of Oris’s output lies firmly in the vintage reissue category, the Propilot range is where they come right up to date.

The latest releases in the collection from W&W Geneva this year caused a happy little buzz, particularly their first collaboration with Disney which brought us the bright green Kermit edition. But it is the Propilot X Calibre 115 which has long caught my eye.

Released in 2019, the 44mm titanium piece has literally been designed around its movement, a fully-hollowed out, hand wound, 10-day reserve caliber you can watch at work through the skeletonized dial.

While stats of that kind can add up to something high on novelty factor and low on readability, not so with the 115. Even with a non-linear power reserve indicator and small seconds sub dial vying for space up front, the whole thing is perfectly legible and, if you’re a true watch nerd, a joy to behold. That huge reserve has to be provided by something and you can see the enormous mainspring perfectly as it overshadows the rest of the movement and even see it tighten as you turn the crown.

A bold and striking wrist presence, the Propilot X Calibre 115 is what happens when Oris decides to flex its muscles.

Featured Photo: Pexels (cc) Archive.