The BeckerTime Guide to the Best Rolex Watches for Women

Traditionally speaking, the most sizeable difference between any brand’s men’s and women’s watches has always been, well, their size.

Even going all the way back to the beginning of the 20^th century when wristwatches designed specifically for men first appeared (about a century after the first piece made for women had been invented) they were noticeably larger—although by contemporary standards they would be considered tiny.

That trend continued until relatively recently, with many-a manufacture creating the same model in a ‘full (men’s) size’ and a ‘ladies’ size. 

However, in the modern age, the line between what constitutes wearability for a male and female audience has become more blurred than ever. Growing numbers of women are sporting watches that would have once been deemed solely for men. You only have to take a look at the ‘Women’s’ section of the Rolex website to find 36mm Datejusts and Day-Dates aplenty, many of them forged from utilitarian steel and without so much as a sniff of gemstone accent—another feature which once often separated the masculine from the feminine.

Yet, there is still a huge market for models which are exclusively for ladies. And it just so happens that Rolex is responsible for several which are considered the most desirable, aspirational and downright stylish in the business.

The question is, which one is right for you? 

If She is a Fan of the Classics

The Rolex Lady-Datejust ref. 79173

Rolex’s most consistently popular model, the Datejust, arrived in 1945 as a tribute to the brand’s first 40-years in the business.

The revolutionary piece took the world by storm and put Rolex on the map, and still today, it ranks as the manufacture’s bestselling creation of all time. Or at least, the women’s version does.

It took until 1957 for the debut Lady-Datejust to be unveiled, with Rolex wisely deciding not to mess with the winning formula which had elevated the full-size models to stratospheric success. Instead, they simply scaled down those original 36mm watches to a more feminine-friendly 26mm while retaining the same foundational aesthetics—the rounded cushion-shaped case, the fluted bezel, simple stick hands and baton hour markers and, of course, that all-important date window at the three o’clock.

Since then, more sizes have been added, others have been discarded and the number of different permutations of metal, bracelet, dial and surround which have issued forth in the Lady-Datejust range are literally too numerous to count. What that means is that there is (at least) one out there to match anybody’s taste.

However, the undisputed definitive look for any Datejust will always be Rolex’s own two-tone combination of steel case with 18k yellow gold bezel, crown and inner bracelet links known as Rolesor. 

It was actually a men’s Datejust which introduced that particular visual in 1948 and it has gone on to be rolled out across nearly all of the names in the portfolio, from the hardiest tool watches to the daintiest dress pieces.

The ref. 79173 edges more towards the latter. Released in 1999, it was among the last of the 26mm models before they made way for the current crop of 28mm Lady-Datejusts. The reference was from the series which first benefitted from the updated Cal. 2235, an extraordinary and record-breaking movement which offers almost unbeatable accuracy and reliability.

Of course, the engine and bimetal construction are just the underpinnings. The watch’s calling card, no matter the size, has always been its versatility. There are hundreds of possible dial colors and styles available on the ref. 79173, but a personal favorite is the Jubilee dial. This distinctive style came out in 1985 to celebrate, in a nicely circular way, the Datejust’s 40^th anniversary and features a surface monogrammed with a repeated ROLEX motif which adds a lovely texture and light catching point of interest. More often than not, these dials are accented with diamond indexes to further up the opulence quotient and, married to the twin tones of glimmering steel and sumptuous gold, make a stunning example of the brand’s finest.

Surprisingly, and it is a surprise which carries over on to many preowned Lady-Datejusts, the ref. 79173 is highly affordable. You can find plenty of excellent examples for less than $7,000, a price which leaves the watch in a category all of its own.

If She Likes To Keep Things Stylish and Simple

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 76080

Take the Lady-Datejust from above, replace the gold parts with more steel, remove the date function, shave off another 2mm and what you are left with is Rolex’s most humble and achingly elegant model, the Oyster Perpetual.

As with the DJ, the Oyster Perpetual is a quiet mainstay in the catalog, the bedrock on which all other Rolex watches are built. It too is available in a range of sizes—five to be exact, one more than the Datejust currently—with the smallest in the contemporary series coming in at 28mm.

Yet that is a fairly new addition. Until recently, the Oyster Perpetual family was home to a tiny 24mm model, the personification of the sophisticated lady’s timepiece.

The ref. 76080 is a perfect example of this beautiful collection. All steel, with a polished, domed bezel, the reference came on a three-link Oyster bracelet, setting off the minimalist, no-fuss vibe of the overall look.

Dial selection was again plentiful, my personal choice being the awesome black face with the 3/6/9 Arabic markers. If you’ve ever wondered what a Rolex Explorer would look like viewed down the wrong end of a telescope, now you know.

Power comes from the Cal. 2230, the same generation of caliber as that sitting inside the Lady-Datejust of the era. Expect nothing but flawless quality and robust service.

With its lack of precious metal or even the simplest complication, the ref. 76080 might well represent the most inexpensive gateway into Rolex ownership you can realistically imagine. Less than $4,000 will get you a lifetime of Brownie points.

If She Likes Her Watches With a Dash of Adventure

The Rolex Yacht-Master ref. 169622

The Yacht-Master is a special range within Rolex’s galaxy of watches.

Released in 1992, it has clocked up a series of firsts over the last 30-years, some of which have remained exclusive to itself.

It was and still is the only Rolex sports watch available in three sizes. In the beginning, those were a ladies 29mm, a midsize 35mm and a men’s 40mm. These days, the collection runs as a 37mm, 40mm and a 42mm.

It was also the watch chosen to debut the brand’s first and so far only rubber strap, the Oysterflex, and it is the only model out of the entire library to be given a Rolesium option. 

Like Rolesor, Rolesium is a meeting of two metals. But unlike Rolesor, as the two metals in question are steel for the case and majority of other components, and platinum for the bezel, this blending does not result in a two-tone look. Instead, we get a chic monochromatic effect, with just the subtlest hint of shimmering whiteness to the rotating surround.

Styling-wise, the Yacht-Master very clearly takes its cues from the Submariner, as watches from countless other brands have been doing since the 1950s. But here, there is an emphasis on making the curves curvier and the lavishness a bit more lavish. If the Sub is for the gritty world of underwater exploration, the Yacht-Master is far more at home aboard some well-oiled teak-decked gin palace.

The ref. 169622 was unveiled in 2003, the second generation of Rolesium Yacht-Masters in a 29mm size. It was driven by the same exceptional Cal. 2235 as our Datejust above, and came with not just a platinum bezel but also a platinum dial. The head to toe silvery grey of the watch was broken only by the bright red of the seconds hand and model signature, leaving it as a wonderfully understated, stealth wealth specimen that epitomizes modern Rolex. 

However, even though it might have every convenience and wear the king of precious metals, the ref. 169622 is incredibly attainable. Spotless pieces can be had for as little as $6,500—making it one of the unsung bargains of preowned luxury watches.