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The Collaborations: The Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms
After the almost unimaginable success of their first collaboration, which saw riots in line to buy an Omega MoonSwatch, the mighty Swiss conglomerate Swatch was obviously keen to keep the ball rolling (and the cash tsunami-ing in) and so went in search of the next likely candidate for a mashup.
They did not have to look far. Of the 16 watch brands under their umbrella, it was only Blancpain which really lent itself to the type of project Swatch had in mind. And, of course, there was similarly only one model on Blancpain’s books which would fit the bill.
The Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms holds a special place in the annals of watch history. Designed by two French special forces divers in 1953 for the military’s newest squad of combat frogmen, it was the model which set the benchmark (and the requirements) for every watch of its type since.
The rotating bezel, the high contrast dial, the self-winding movement and the formidable water resistance all became obligatory on any timepiece which wanted to officially describe itself as a dive watch. And the Fifty Fathoms put all those features in place before anyone else.
Well, that’s the story anyway. Recent years and fastidious investigations may have actually debunked the whole ‘Fifty Fathoms was the first ever dive watch’ narrative in favor of the Rolex Submariner, but it doesn’t really matter. The Blancpain will always be the niche darling, the cult phenomenon, adored by the more knowledgeable aficionado who view the Sub as a bit too obvious.
So now, along comes the Swatch Group. Fresh from the global phenomenon of their Omega association, Swatch decides not to mess too much with a winning formula. Where the MoonSwatch took its inspirations from the planets in the solar system (plus the sun), the Blancpain partnership would focus on the Fifty Fathoms’ own ostensible home turf of the Earth’s oceans.
To that end, on the 7th September 2023, the first five of the Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection premiered
The Collection
Also in keeping with the MoonSwatch, the Blancpains were made from Bioceramic too. The composite material consists of 75% ceramic and 25% a polymer partially derived from castor oil and is seen as a material for the future in an industry starting to take its sustainability duties seriously.
The original five watches all took their aesthetic from one of the world’s oceans; which, you would mistakenly think, would render them all blue! However, in order to give each one a unique colorway, Swatch actually modeled them after a different nudibranch which lives in that particular ocean. Yep, their fashioned after sea slugs.
So the ‘Atlantic Ocean’ comes in a deep navy, the ‘Pacific Ocean’ is white, black and yellow, the ‘Indian Ocean’ is a lovely green and black, the ‘Arctic Ocean’ is a vibrant orange with paprika dial, and the ‘Antarctic Ocean’ is a discreet icy grey.
Of that initial set, three models came with a date display at the 4:30 (the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian). The other two were time only, but did come with some charming vintage details of their own. The Arctic had the famous ‘No Rad’ marking on its dial above the 6 o’clock. Any Blancpain enthusiast will recognize that from the full fat watches from the ‘60s which wore the symbol as a way to demonstrate the removal of harmful radium lume on the hands and indexes. And the Antarctic had the equally well-known moisture indicator, a twin colored disc which would change shade should any water seep into the case.
All the watches measured 42.3mm in diameter, were 14.4mm thick and retained the 91m (otherwise known as 50 fathoms) water resistance of their ancestors. Inside is the Swatch SISTEM 51 movement, a fully mechanical self-winding caliber made from just 51 parts and held together by one central screw. Cheap to make and built almost entirely by automated production, the SISTEM 51 comes with a 90-hour power reserve but, on the downside, is unserviceable.
Are They Any Good?
The Fifty Fathoms was never going to cause quite the same hysteria as the MoonSwatch for the simple reason that the models both collaborations are based on have vastly different levels of fame and recognizability within the watch buying public. As vital as the Blancpain is historically, it can’t really live up to the hype of the only watch to take one giant leap.
Even so, the FFs sold well enough for Swatch to enlarge the collection in the following years. In January 2024, the sexy all-black ‘Ocean of Storms’ debuted looking every inch the stealth diver for Navy Seals.
After that, in December 2024, the ‘Blue Lagoon’ arrived wearing a bright turquoise. Then, in January 2025, the shocking bubblegum ‘Pink Ocean’ landed. And finally, bringing the set up to a nice round 9, in June 2025, the last example came into being, the of-the-moment ‘Green Abyss’, with black bezel and olive case.
The question is; are they worth buying?
My own personal opinion is a resounding yes. Come at me if you like, but I prefer the Fifty Fathoms watches to the MoonSwatch—although I prefer the proper Speedmaster to the proper FF.
But there is something more pleasing to the eye about what Swatch and Blancpain have done with their lovechild. That domed bezel is a delight, as is the period-correct dial furniture. The whole thing has a better balance too, which is only to be expected as the FF doesn’t have to place chrono sub dials like the MoonSwatch.
The color choice is first rate as well. I’m a huge fan of the Antarctic’s cool neutrality and the vibrancy of the Pacific. And I like the little detailing on the case back. On the movement and sapphire crystal is an illustration of the ocean and the relevant sea creature on which the particular model is based.
Most of all I love the price. The Blancpain X Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms still retails for $420. And yes, not being able to maintain and service the movement is a problem, making these mechanical watches somewhat disposable when they go wrong. But they are, above all else, fun. And if it makes folk more interested in Blancpain as a whole, so much the better.
Featured Photo: Mixed art by Oriol Mendivil for BKT Archive.
