Our Christmas Rolex Wish List for 2024

Welcome to BeckerTime’s version of writing a letter to Santa!

Each year, watch journalists the world over give us their predictions for what Rolex will introduce over the next 12-months. And each year (like, seriously; every single year) they are proved absolutely wrong. 

This time around we’re going to do things a little differently. Tiring of that Christmas tradition where the Swiss behemoth makes us all look stupid, we’ve decided to frame it as more of a wish list than a set of projections.

That doesn’t mean, however, that we throw all conjecture and rumor out the window. There has been plenty of scuttlebutt and hullaballoo about goings-on behind the scenes at Geneva, so we will take that into account too. 

What I’m trying to say is, the following is what we hope to see emerge from Rolex in 2024.

One way or another, next year is going to be major for one of Rolex’s biggest hitters.

2024 marks the 70^th anniversary of the GMT-Master, arguably the world’s favorite luxury travel watch.

As we know already, there is little Rolex enjoys more than a decent birthday bash, so we have our fingers crossed for something very special with their dual time zone masterpiece. But what form might that take?
Well, if you believe the behind-the-scenes whispers, Rolex is apparently having production issues with their ‘Pepsi’ bezel, the red and blue livery which first set the watch on its way to superstardom back in 1954. That has led some to believe the marque will be shelving the model for the time being. So what could take its place?

Well, there hasn’t been an all-black surround on a GMT for a number of years; the last one, the ref. 116710LN, being retired in 2018. So an update of that piece, complete with the new generation movement currently in all other models, the Cal. 3285, would certainly be both a welcome addition as well as negating those bicolor manufacturing issues.

If the rumors turn about to be false, of course, a return of the black and red ‘Coke’ bezel is long overdue. We haven’t had one of those since 2007 with the ref. 16710. 

And if we’ve been really good this year, how about Santa brings us something very special indeed, like maybe a platinum or even titanium version? So far, out of the Professional Collection, only the Daytona has been given the king of metals treatment, with a brace of platinum models complete with ice blue dials. A GMT-Master II variant of that would be extremely welcome. Similarly, Rolex has started dipping its toes into the world of titanium, with a highly popular version of the Yacht-Master emerging last year, along with the lunatic 50mm Deepsea Challenge. 

Surely a lightweight, cool brushed GMT-Master isn’t too much to ask for!

The Rolex Submariner (Missed its Birthday)

This year was also officially the 70^th birthday of Rolex’s most famous creation, the Submariner—although you’d be forgiven for now knowing that.

You might have imagined, as did we all, that we were going to be treated to an absolutely stellar line-up of new Subs to celebrate the start of the dive-watch-to-end-all-dive-watches’ eighth decade of domination.

Would there be new dial colors, new sizes, new bracelets, new metals? 

No, there would not.

What we got instead (drumroll please!) was a slightly different shade of green on the bezel of the ref. 126610LV. And that was it.

Underwhelming is an understatement and, not to put too fine a point on it, it kinda feels like we’re owed something quite spectacular this year.

My own preference would be for an Everose gold model, the only one of the three flavors of the precious metal yet to make it to the Submariner’s make-up. Maybe even with a white dial, something else we’ve never seen before.

It’s tempting to plump for a platinum version as well, but that may just be too heavy. An RLX Titanium one wouldn’t be, though!

Or how about we follow the lead set by Tudor for once, instead of the other way around? Their scaled-back Black Bay models, the 39mm BB58 and 37mm BB54, have proved extremely popular. A 37mm or 38mm Rolex Sub would bring the piece back to its earliest incarnation and give it the ultimate in retro appeal for vintage enthusiasts.

The Rolex 1908 (A Few More, Please)

Only launched last year, the 1908 series was the obvious replacement for the little-known Cellini range. 

As lovely as this new collection is, with their versatile 39mm cases, Calatrava-esque hobnail bezels and Breguet-ish hour hands, there are only four to choose from so far.

My personal Christmas wish would be for some more complicated versions to top up the portfolio.

We know Rolex can make a mean moonphase, so one of those in a 1908 body would be a big hit. Maybe an annual or even a perpetual calendar version too. Or, you know what the brand should really start experimenting with? Minute repeaters. There has never been a chiming Rolex and I think it is high time there was! (We did say this was a wish list and not a prediction list!)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual (We Demand More Funky Colors)

Rolex has been a bit weird with their entry-level collection lately. The Oyster Perpetual is the perfect place for the brand to let its hair down and lighten up a bit, and they’ve been doing that in recent years to great success.

However, no sooner does one particular setup gain a loyal following than it seems to be withdrawn. We lost the much-loved 39mm model after just five years, replaced by the 41mm. When it went, we also lost some bright and fun colors, like the retina-searing yellow and Stella-inspired Coral Red. Perhaps more importantly, the white dial went as well, possibly one of the best executions of the color in the manufacture’s recent history.

I’d like those colors back please! Moreover, I want the ‘Tiffany’ dial on the 41mm model. Yes, I know we have the ‘Celebrations’ dials, with the same turquoise shade as a background to all the bubbles, but it’s not the same!  

What else can I ask for?

How about a few more Oysterflex options? The Sea-Dweller seems like a good choice for the hypoallergenic, hyper-resistant rubber strap. A big, heavy watch, it would benefit from the reduced weight and it would look awesome too. Similarly, on the Yacht-Master II, it would be both lighter and tone the whole thing down a bit.

Obviously we’re going to get a whole bunch of new Day-Date and Datejust dials whether we ask for them or not, but why not a Polar-faced Explorer—a white-dialed option to match its stablemate? 

And what about the oft-overlooked Air-King? It could get the Rolesor treatment as the Explorer did last year. Or, you know what, a return of the engine-turned bezel (or the 2024 equivalent) would really set it apart.

As you will have gathered, there is precisely zero way to envisage what Rolex will do every year, which is why we have gone a little overboard with our wish list here. But never fear, in only a few short months, the crown will be unveiling its 2024 collection at the Watches & Wonders show in April, and we will keep you updated with what really happened.