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The Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Watches to Celebrate Presidents’ Day
Held on the third Monday of each February, the annual federal holiday officially called Washington’s Birthday was originally founded as a celebration of the life and achievements of George Washington.
Created in 1879, with the first ceremonies the following year, it has expanded over its duration to honor all past U.S. presidents, and in particular Washington, Lincoln and Jefferson. To that end, is it more commonly known these days as Presidents’ Day.
This year, the event falls on February 17th, and what better way to mark the occasion than to secure yourself a watch fit for a commander-in-chief.
What Watch Does a President Wear?
There have been as many different watches worn by U.S. presidents as there have been U.S. presidents. Each incumbent seems to have had their favorite, although there is some overlap here and there.
A surprising number of premiers have been devotees of a model by a relatively obscure Swiss brand; the Vulcain Cricket.
A beautiful little piece with a surprisingly loud mechanical alarm function, the Cricket was the choice of Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon and, inarguably its biggest admirer, Lyndon Johnson. Johnson acquired a bulk order of 200 of the watches to give away as gifts during his term and was rumored to set the alarm on his to go off during boring meetings to hasten his escape.
However, among the other models found on president’s wrists—Kennedy was a Cartier and Omega fan, Obama loved his TAG Heuer and Jorg Gray, Clinton wore a Timex Iron Man—there is, of course, one brand which crops up again and again and again.
Rolex and the U.S. Presidency
It is believed Eisenhower was the first president to wear a Rolex, with the manufacture gifting him a Datejust, the 150,000th chronometer they had ever made, in 1951, two years before he took office. His fellow Cricket fan, Reagan, wore a Datejust too.
But if you say the words ‘President’s watch’ to anyone with even a passing interest in horology, only one model comes to mind.
The Rolex Day-Date has been the brand’s elite creation since it was introduced in 1956. Only ever made in precious metal, it was the first waterproof and self-winding wristwatch to show the date and day of the week in full.
The reason it became almost better known by its informal yet fitting nickname, The President, has long been open for discussion.
The most obvious inspiration comes from its dedicated bracelet. The three semicircular-link band was created especially for the model and is officially called the President bracelet. Over time that name has been transferred to the watch as a whole.
But there have been a number of presidents, as well as leaders in other fields, who have worn the watch and so their title has become inextricably linked with it.
Theoretically, JFK was the first president to own one. For about three seconds. Marilyn Monroe gave Kennedy a yellow gold example on his birthday in 1962—the same occasion when her rendition of ‘Happy Birthday Mr. President’ caused jaws to drop across the country. Rightly sensing a scandal, Kennedy gave the watch, on which Monroe had engraved ‘JACK With love as always from MARILYN’ on the back to an aide to dispose of.
After that, his successor, Lyndon Johnson, wore a Day-Date and it is with his tenure that most experts believe the term ‘President’ became linked with the model.
More recently, Donald Trump is known to have one among his collection and so the association between the world’s most famous watchmaker and the nation’s highest office continues.
Which Day-Date for President’s Day?
In constant production for nearly 70-years, there is an unbelievable array of Day-Date models from which to choose; with different metals, bezels, bracelets and as many various dials as there are stars in the sky.
It means there is one out there to suit anyone, and below we pick out five of the best to wear this President’s Day.
The All-Time Classic
The Rolex Day-Date ref. 118238
As already stated, the Day-Date range is massively varied and takes in many different connotations of elements. But there has always been, and probably always will be, one setup which is recognized as the Presidential look; yellow gold case, fluted bezel, champagne dial.
Coupled with the President bracelet, and in particular its Crownclasp—an invisible fastening marked only by a small Rolex coronet—it makes the whole thing look like one solid, unbroken gold bracelet on the wrist.
The very first reference, the ref. 6511, was an example of this arrangement and it has carried through across every subsequent generation.
Because it is such a permeating visual, and because the Day-Date itself has barely changed its outward appearance since the end of the 1950s, you can wear a model from almost any vintage and get the same effect.
A great option is the ref. 118238. Launched in 2000, it came with the faultless Cal. 3155 movement, complete with the convenience of a Double Quickset date function, and can be bought for as little as $25,000.
The Low-Key One
The Rolex Day-Date ref. 118239
Just because you’ve reached the top in your respective arena, it doesn’t mean you have to shout about it. A little bit of modesty often says more than showy ever will.
However, no model of the President has never been made in that humblest of metals, stainless steel (well, not one which has been sold to the general public, anyway), and so the next best thing has to be white gold.
The neutrality of white gold is a refreshing step away from the brashness of yellow. It sits understated on the wrist and, if paired with a correspondingly reserved dial color, becomes a discreetly class act.
A reference such as the ref. 118239 fits the bill nicely. From the same generation as the example above, match the case with a silver dial and you have that identical uninterrupted band look, except much less flamboyant.
On the whole, white gold Day-Dates are fewer and farther between than their yellow gold counterparts, giving you a welcome hit of exclusivity too. Just more proof that there is a President out there for everyone.
The Silly One
The Rolex Day-Date ref. 128235 ‘Emoji Dial’
There was a time when the Day-Date possessed all the playful joviality of Henry Kissinger getting a colonoscopy. It was a watch meant for the dark corridors of power and worn by the equally dark forces dwelling within.
Then came the Stella dials of the 1970s, eye-poppingly bright lacquered dials of pink and turquoise and orange which did for the Day-Date what the psychedelic paint job did for John Lennon’s Rolls Royce.
It marked a point where the President’s target audience expanded far beyond its original roster of somber dignitaries and started encompassing those who had excelled in other walks of life; music, film, the arts, etc.
Fast forward to today and you will still find a few examples in the collection where the Rolex designers have been given license to have a bit of fun, and the current ref. 128235 ‘Emoji Dial’ is arguably the standout among them.
Released in 2022, this represents a shakeup of a number of previously stone clad aspects of the watch.
Firstly, the dial itself. On the white and yellow gold models, you get a turquoise base and on the Everose it’s orange. So already this is a break from the norm. But on top of that, Rolex has included a jigsaw motif, with multicolor pieces laid across the face. Additionally, in place of the usual hour markers there are 10 rainbow sapphire indexes, their layout coordinated to contrast best against their respective backgrounds.
Then there’s the double calendar apertures. Where traditionally these have been filled with the day of the week and the date numeral, on this piece the 12 o’clock display shows seven different motivational words:‘Happy,’ ‘Eternity,’ ‘Gratitude,’ ‘Peace,’ ‘Faith,’ ‘Love’ and ‘Hope,’ while at the 3 o’clock window there are, as the name would suggest, 31 emojis.
It all kinda negates the President’s original purpose, of course. Looking at your watch wondering what today’s date is only to discover it’s Eternity, the peace sign of November, or Gratitude, the kissy face of June is a bit odd. But hopefully it would elicit a smile anyway.
Personally, I love the ‘Emoji Dial’ Day-Date and it is wonderful to see the notoriously straitlaced manufacture enjoy themselves a little.
The Perfect Vintage One
The Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803
There’s a reason the ref. 1803 is something of a legend in vintage Rolex collector’s circuits. Well, there’s two reasons, actually.
Firstly, this reference, released just three short years after the debut models, is where the Day-Date really hit its stride; from the finalized case shape, to the standardization of fonts and handsets and indexes, to the introduction of choices in language for the day disc, to the massive selection of dials, to the new, more robust movement—all the pieces came together here. So much so, in fact, that it stayed in production from 1959 all the way up to 1978.
The other reason is the price. The ref. 1803 is, by far, the most accessible gateway into Day-Date ownership. Today, you can pick up excellent examples for less than $10,000. If you want one on the eponymous President bracelet, you will still get change back from $15,000.
So, what are you getting? Externally, there are a couple of clues as to the ref. 1803’s older heritage. The crystal is acrylic rather than the more recent sapphire, with an appealing dome over the dial and a warmer tone. And the dial itself is what is known as pie pan style, in that it drops down at the edges like an upturned dish. It is a type common to many vintage watches and beloved by many enthusiasts.
Inside, the movements Rolex used; the Cal. 1555 and later the Cal. 1556, beat at 18,000vph and 19,800vph respectively and neither had Quickset dates, although a hacking function was added in the early ‘70s.
Other than those points, which have a charm all their own, the ref. 1803 is an historically vital reference of one of the most important watches of all time, and for a bargain basement price.
The Top of the Line One
The Rolex Day-Date ref. 228396TBR
To the other end of the scale now.
Although you can pick up a Day-Date for much less than you might expect, you can also pay huge amounts for one, should you so wish.
The ref. 228396TBR is currently the most expensive example of the President in the regular catalog; and here’s why.
To begin with, it is a 40mm model, and the option in sizes only dates back to 2008. That was when the Day-Date II came out, a 41mm watch that sacrificed some of the 36mm piece’s elegant lines in favor of a larger diameter. As a result, it was enough of an opinion-splitter for Rolex to scrap it in 2015 and have another go. That turned out to be the much better received Day-Date 40 which has since gone from strength to strength and now sits happily in the frame next to the time-honored 36mm range.
The cost is also on the hefty side due to having a bezel crammed with 40 trapezoid-cut diamonds and a further 10 baguette-cut stones for hour markers. And those things don’t come cheap either.
Mostly, however, it is the metal which is responsible for the price tag. During those times when solid 18k gold just isn’t quite fancy enough, we have to turn to the shimmering radiance of the king of precious metals; platinum.
As with everything else that goes into a Rolex watch, the brand forge their platinum alloy themselves, retaining obsessive control over its quality and makeup. Reserved only for the very top echelons of the portfolio, it represents the noblest expression of success and attainment there is.
The ref. 228398TBR is issued with a choice in dial; slate, bright black, bright blue, blue ombré, olive green, white, silver, ice blue, meteorite and mother-of-pearl. And one other.
For the knockdown price of $147,500, you can have a full pavé diamond dial with two sapphire hour markers.
It is not a watch for the shy and retiring, but it is the ultimate Rolex President.
Featured Photo: Mixed Art by Oriol Mendivil for BKT Archive.
