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Rival Timepieces to Challenge Rolex’s Finest: Submariner vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
The Submariner & The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
For our second in-depth look at viable alternatives to the fabled Rolex Submariner, we’re exploring that perennial thorn in the Sub’s side, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M.
In the view of many-an expert, this is where Rolex’s most stringent challenge comes from—another style icon, from a world famous brand, and one with the ultimate in pop culture patronage; the timepiece of choice of a certain 007.
There’s no doubt it is a fabulous collection of first class watches—but are they Sub killers? Let’s take a look.
Omega’s Seamasters
In some ways, the name Seamaster has been a little misleading over the years. Today it is synonymous with high performance dive watches. But when the first model to bear the title came out in 1948, it seemingly earned it by having rubber O-ring gaskets which afforded slightly more water resistance than normal. In all other respects, it was a simple albeit elegant dress watch.
Additionally, as far as the contemporary portfolio goes, there are plenty of models flying under the Seamaster banner which have not much at all to do with exploring the depths. Nobody is calling the Aqua Terra range dive watches, despite their healthy 150M waterproofing, for example. And, in a case of ‘well, they’ve gotta go somewhere,’ Omega in its wisdom also list the Railmasters under the same collection, despite their original remit of being the go-to scientist’s timepiece due to their beefed up magnetic resistance.
No, the first Seamasters to fully warrant the description did not come along until 1957. That year saw the advent of the Professional Collection, a trio of ‘Masters’ (Rail, Speed and Sea) all released simultaneously to take on the three pillars of mechanical watch glory.
It is hard to say which has fared best during the last 68-years. Ok, the Railmaster has, much like Rolex’s Milgauss, fallen a little by the wayside. But the Speedmaster and Seamaster are both bona fide horological luminaries.
However, there is a big difference between those first Seamaster 300 models and the current Diver 300Ms.
The debut 300 was a beautiful 39mm time-only piece, with bold 12/3/6/9 indexes and rotating Bakelite dive bezel. Although only in production for a few years, it would go through eight different iterations, with modifications made to handsets, fonts and minor movement updates. But, no matter which generation you look at, as the name suggests, all are water resistant down to…200m!
Yup, why Omega called it the 300 is a mystery lost to time, but the clever money’s on the fact that it just sounded better than 200.
An Extended Family of Seamasters
Say what you want about Omega, but when they hit on a name they like, they stick with it.
Pretty soon after the 300’s introduction, Seamasters started popping up everywhere, in a wildly diverse set of watches. Everything from tiny ladies pieces to the behemoth PloProf got lumped under the same umbrella.
Much of the blame could be laid at the feet of the Quartz Crisis, with Omega forced to do whatever they could to survive the onslaught. The ‘70s and ‘80s led to the collection’s identity (and that of the brand itself, for that matter) becoming dangerously diluted.
However, as the 1990s hove into view, all that was going to change in a big way.
Master… Seamaster
There was a long time to wait between Dalton’s last Bond outing and the start of the Brosnan era. Six years, in fact, with The Living Daylights coming out in 1989 and Goldeneye not premiering until 1995.
The difference between the two portrayals was actually as different as the ‘80s were to the ‘90s, with Dalton praised for sticking close to Fleming’s source material in his hard-edged grittiness, while Brosnan’s suave charm injected a bit more in the way of fun.
And with such a gulf between the two depictions, it seemed only right that the respective wardrobes got a shakeup too. In short, out went Dalton’s Rolex Submariner and in came an all-new beast from arch rivals Omega; the Seamaster Diver 300M.
I can actually still remember that first sight of the ref. 2541.80 on Brosnan’s wrist. It was a real ‘oh damn’moment, even though this was long before I developed a love of watches. That lovely blue on the dial and bezel, the subtle wave pattern to the face, the twisted lugs and that intricate bracelet all added up to theperfect Bond watch—smart, stylish and looking like it could handle every situation, whether shaking Martinis or dismantling nuclear bombs.
And it’s fair to say, I wasn’t the only one enamored. Whether the new Diver 300M collection would have exploded onto the scene in quite the same way without Bond’s benefaction we’ll never know, but the fact of the matter is that one watch transformed Omega’s fortunes post Crisis.
007 would go on to wear a selection of Diver 300M models in subsequent adventures (although Brosnan’s piece would be the last quartz powered model), all of them sharing a number of design cues.
The skeletonized hands have been a constant throughout the series, as has the scallop-edged bezel and the helium escape valve at the 10 o’clock. Yet, there have been subtle changes over the years too. The wave design was retired briefly in 2012 when ceramic was introduced to both the dial and bezel insert. But the pattern made a rapid comeback for the 25th anniversary edition in 2018. That was also the year the case size increased from the initial 41mm to 42mm and the first Master Chronometer movement was installed, the cal. 8800.
All the while, the range had been expanding. Different colorways were issued alongside the standard blue or black. Today you can see burgundy bezels and grey dials, as well as all-green editions and unadorned steel on steel pieces. On that note, a mass of different materials have made it to the collection too, with gold, tantalum, titanium, full ceramic and two-tone all available. There’s also a host of bracelet options, everything from rubber and NATO straps to the original five link steel band and Omega’s own glorious mesh bracelet for the ultimate in comfort. And alongside the time-only and time-and-date models, a small range of chronographs completes the series.
As you might expect, Omega have not been timid about their Bond connection. There have been several special editions released to profit from the association, most of which have proved very popular indeed, displaying not only the enduring allure of the super spy but also the unrepentant childishness of many men (yes, I have one!)
But how does the Seamaster add up next to the Submariner? To be honest, the two watch ranges are very different. Omega have taken the more scattergun approach, launching over 60 variations on the main theme in order to cater to as many differing tastes as they can. Rolex have just eight models total of the Sub, and only two alternatives—with or without date. It is a take it or leave it sort of attitude (as you might expect from Rolex) because they seem to be more secure in the appeal of their watch.
Against that, however, is a significant price difference in Omega’s favor, plus the advantage of being able to actually buy one through official channels without much of a wait, if any.
So, as first world watch collecting problems go, it’s not a bad one to have choosing between the two. As a personal preference, I might opt for the Sub, but that might literally be because I grew up watching Connery and Moore as Bond. Those who aren’t old and decrepit might want the Brosnan/Craig alternative!
Featured Photo: Mixed art by Oriol Mendivil for BKT Archive.
